Comparison, 1967–69 First-gen Camaro & Firebird
1967–69 Camaro chassis: full frame or subframe, and what each costs
Published prices for eleven first-gen Camaro chassis and subframes, from about $8,000 to $37,000, and how to choose.
The first-gen Camaro is a unibody car with a bolt-on front subframe, which gives you two ways to modernize it: replace just the front subframe, or replace everything underneath with a full-length chassis. We pulled every published price we could find on October 1, 2026. The full list, with sources, is on the first-gen Camaro chassis comparison.
Option 1: a modern front subframe ($8,000–$11,000)
A new front subframe bolts where the factory one did and brings modern geometry, coilovers and rack-and-pinion steering. Published prices we found:
- Speedtech Pro Touring subframe: $7,999.95
- Art Morrison GT Sport subframe: $8,429.99 at Classic Industries (Art Morrison doesn't publish prices)
- Detroit Speed hydroformed subframe: $8,941.95 for the bare, non-adjustable version, up to $11,006.95 for powdercoated with double-adjustable shocks
The catch: the rear suspension is a separate project. Plan on subframe connectors and a 4-link or leaf-spring upgrade on top of the subframe price.
Option 2: a full-length chassis ($14,750–$37,000)
A full chassis replaces the front subframe, the rear suspension and the car's structure in one job. Published starting prices:
- Scott's Hotrods: $14,750 coilover, $15,650 air ride
- Roadster Shop SPEC: $15,495
- Chassisworks gStreet: $15,495 for the chassis only. The front suspension adds $4,698 or more and the rear adds $2,898 or more, so compare it at roughly $23,000.
- Chassisworks gStreet IRS: $18,989, front suspension extra
- Roadster Shop Fast Track: $22,495
- Speedtech Extreme IRS: $36,999.95
- Schwartz G-Machine: by quote
How to choose
Read "starting price" carefully. Some chassis include suspension, steering and brakes; others are a frame and you add the rest. Before you compare numbers, line up what's included: front suspension, rear suspension, rack, brakes, engine and transmission mounts, and whether the floor needs cutting.
A subframe makes sense if the car's floors and rails are good and you want to keep the build mostly bolt-on. A full chassis makes sense if the car needs floor work anyway, or if you want an IRS and wide rear tires.
Prices change often. Every row on the comparison page shows the date we checked it and links to the source.