Donor cars for the 1949–54 Chevrolet car (Styleline, Fleetline, Bel Air)

What you get. Dropouts usually include the engine and accessories with the manual or automatic transmission. Better ones also include the PCM, harness and pedal, but many swaps use Ford Performance's Control Pack instead.

Watch out for. The DOHC heads make the Coyote very wide, so check shock tower, firewall and steering clearance in older chassis. The MT82 has a reputation for notchy shifting and durability complaints, so many builders upgrade to a Tremec. Gen 3+ engines use both port and direct injection with a high-pressure pump, and Ford's PATS anti-theft has to be handled by a swap controller or tune.

Best for. Classic Mustangs, Falcons, Fairlanes and Ford trucks wanting modern Ford power, and pro-touring Fords where modern power is the goal.

What you get. A truck pullout is the engine and automatic transmission, and some sellers include a swap kit with the PCM, key and column. 4x4 donors come with a transfer-case tailhousing that needs a 2WD conversion for most classics.

Watch out for. Truck Coyotes have a different oil pan, intake and accessory drive from the Mustang engine and often need the car parts to fit. Some 2018–20 F-150 5.0s are known for oil consumption. As with all Coyotes, plan for the engine's width and Ford's PATS anti-theft.

Best for. Ford trucks (F-100 and Bronco), Rancheros and big-body Fords where an automatic Coyote at truck-donor prices makes sense.

What you get. Recyclers mostly sell the bare used engine assembly. Full dropouts with the PCM, harness and transmission are less common, and harnesses and PCMs often sell separately.

Watch out for. MDS (cylinder deactivation) lifter and cam wear, the so-called 'Hemi tick', is the best-known failure, so many swaps delete MDS. The truck PCM is tied to the Sentry Key immobilizer, so most builders use a tuned or Mopar/aftermarket swap controller. The truck oil pan and accessory drive usually need to be swapped for clearance.

Best for. Classic Mopar B- and E-bodies, Dodge trucks and other Mopar restomods on a budget.

What you get. Usually the complete engine assembly from the recycler. Manual-car donors are worth hunting down because the TR6060 can come with them, while the harness, PCM and pedal are often separate items.

Watch out for. As with the trucks, automatic cars use MDS and can develop lifter tick. The car PCM and the electronically controlled automatics are networked with the body systems and anti-theft, so a Mopar or aftermarket swap controller is the usual fix. Check that the oil pan and the wide heads clear the K-member and steering in older chassis.

Best for. Classic Chargers, Challengers, Cudas, Darts and Road Runners wanting a modern Hemi, especially a 392 with a 6-speed manual.

What you get. Used engines are mostly sold as engine assemblies from wrecked Super Duty trucks, sometimes with accessories still attached. Full pullouts with the transmission and PCM are rare, and Ford Performance sells a Control Pack for swaps.

Watch out for. It is a tall, heavy iron-block engine, so check hood height, crossmember clearance and front spring rates. The Super Duty oil pan and accessory drive are built for the truck chassis, so swaps usually need aftermarket pans and brackets. Port injection makes the fuel system simpler than DI engines, but Ford's PATS still has to be dealt with.

Best for. Classic Ford trucks, Broncos and big-body cars with room for a big-block, where you want big-block torque with a modern warranty-era engine.

What you get. Most US sources are low-mileage JDM imports sold as long blocks with the external accessories bolted on. Some include the matching automatic ECU, but the transmission is usually extra.

Watch out for. The inline-6 is long, so check radiator and firewall clearance. VVT-i engines (1998+) need the matching ECU or a standalone, and the factory ECU's immobilizer must be dealt with. A manual swap means sourcing a W58, R154 or an adapter. The 2JZ-GE has a higher compression ratio than the turbo 2JZ-GTE, so boosted 'NA-T' builds need conservative boost and tuning.

Best for. Datsun 240Z/280Z, early Celicas, Cressidas, Toyota trucks and other Japanese classics wanting a durable inline-6.

What you get. Usually a JDM-import long block with the timing cover, pan, valve covers and water pump. The harness, ECU and transmission are typically separate, though cheap.

Watch out for. There was never a factory manual, so a stick shift needs an aftermarket bellhousing adapter to a W58, R154, CD009 or similar. The timing belt must be replaced on schedule, and its condition is often unknown on imports. The wide DOHC heads, the different sump positions between donors and the factory wiring often lead builders to a custom pan and a standalone ECU.

Best for. Japanese classics wanting a smooth V8, such as Datsun Z cars, Toyota pickups and Land Cruisers, AE86s and Cressidas.

What you get. Some swap packages include the engine and 6-speed, but JDM K20A engines are usually sold motor-only. The harness and ECU are often extra, and many builders use a Hondata K-Pro.

Watch out for. The K20 is built for transverse front-wheel drive, so putting it in a rear-drive classic needs an aftermarket RWD bellhousing/adapter kit or a complete subframe/kit approach. The factory ECU's immobilizer means most swaps run a reflashed or aftermarket ECU. The early Civic Si K20A3 makes much less power than the Type-S engines, so check the engine code.

Best for. Lightweight Japanese and British classics such as Datsun 510s, AE86s, early Civics, Minis and Miatas, plus FWD-to-K-swap projects.

What you get. Usually sold as cheap JDM-import long blocks with heads and some accessories. Many builders combine a K24 bottom end with a K20 head or a K20/TSX transmission.

Watch out for. Like the K20, it is a transverse FWD engine and needs an adapter kit for rear-drive use. Economy-car K24s have milder heads and intakes than the TSX, so check the engine code. Buyers often have to move sensors, the oil pan and accessories over from their old engine, and the factory immobilizer means a reflashed or aftermarket ECU.

Best for. Torque-friendly four-cylinder swaps into small Japanese classics, Minis, Volvos and kit cars on a budget.

What you get. JDM imports are usually sold engine only with head, pan, timing cover and water pump. The CD001 or CD009 6-speed is sold separately and is popular on its own as a swap gearbox.

Watch out for. The 2005–06 Rev-Up engines are known for oil consumption, so the non-Rev-Up engine is often preferred. The early CD001 is known for synchro wear, while the CD009 is stronger and is widely adapted to LS, 2JZ and other engines. The ECU is tied to Nissan's NATS immobilizer, so use the matching ECU and key or a standalone.

Best for. Datsun 240Z/280Z, 510 and Nissan trucks wanting a modern Nissan V6, or any classic using the CD009 gearbox.

What you get. Most are JDM imports, sold engine only or with the automatic transmission and sometimes the ECU. Manual-transmission packages turn up less often.

Watch out for. Apex seal wear and low compression are the main risk, so insist on a rotary-specific compression test. Renesis engines can flood on short cold starts and depend on their oil-metering system. The side-exhaust-port design means older RX-7 exhaust and intake parts do not swap over directly.

Best for. Classic Mazdas such as the RX-2, RX-3, RX-7 FB/FC and Miata, and other lightweight cars where a light, high-revving engine matters most.